When you are looking for best entry level road bike, you may consider to get the used one since it can be a lot cheaper. What are the pros and cons of buying an old bicycle or used bicycle? Find out more range of the best entry level road bike on this website.
Buying a second hand bicycle with can considerably save your money. On the other hand, you may encounter a stolen bicycle, the bicycle may have hidden defects or just be worn out.
Saving money when buying used bike actually may well be imaginary. Since on the modern bikes, they have a number of relatively fast wearing parts and assemblies. Even if the equipment is worn slightly, the clarity of his work will be slightly worse than the new. Thus, you will not be able to feel the charm of owning a new bike!
If the bike is not very new, it is possible that, while saving on the purchase of, say, 30% from market price, you may have to change some worn or defected part which the amount of spending could be more than buying a new bike.
The only advantage is the cost will be stretched in time. For example: on the mountain bike with a mileage of 13,000 km and an initial cost value of about $600. You may spent on the current replacement of parts about $450. Then the further expenses only increased when the part is worn or damage.
What to check on the bike before buying
The frame should not bent and have no obvious dents. Wheels should go next to each other, ask someone to drive in a straight line, and see for yourself behind. Ride through a puddle or on dry pavement and look at the tracks. Curved or bent frame shows rough riding or accident – this bike should be avoided, because straighten the frame usually does not work.
Look on the bike appearance, the number of paint chips and clobbered it can be assumed as how the bike is treated previously. Inspect frame for cracks. Most often can be found in the vicinity of the seat post, and handlebars.
Grasp the frame near the top of the seat and the steering seat post and slightly tilted from the bike itself, push foot in the shaft of the carriage turns on both sides. Frame will flex under load, but at the same time, should not clicks and squeaks sound, which may indicate the micro cracks in the frame. Try holding the frame in the same places, "break" frame - with one hand over the other from themselves. Listen to any clicks and squeaks, the good one should not produce that sound.
Fork and steering should not have significant backlash. Check on the minimum clearance in the fork. To check, hold the front brake and rock the bike back and forth. Play in the handlebars may indicate broken bearings and the fork. Suspension fork should work at reasonable effort and without jamming.
Wheel , frame and seatpost should not be bent or have dents. Otherwise you'll have to replace them. Try to change the saddle height - seatpost should be free, but without noticeable backlash in the frame to move the entire length. The seat should not moving, it must be securely fixed. Seat rails should not be bent.
Brake levers, front and rear derailleurs should not have significant backlash. Get ready to change any of thes, if significant backlash is visible. Everything must move without binding. Acceptable clearance on the end frame of the rear derailleur around 3-4 mm. Rollers should rotate freely and have an acceptable profile of the teeth or their need to change. Cables should not have any burst, and fractures. If you have installed hydraulic brakes, brake fluid stains or oil should not be anywhere else.
The chain quality or wear can be determined using a special gauge or measuring unit of 24. Average distance between the centers of the connecting pins - 304.8 mm. When measuring this distance is greater than 2 mm larger than the nominal value, be prepared to change not only the chain, but the tape and, possibly, all the system.
Tooth profile of all cassettes and systems should be more or less symmetrical, excluding individual teeth, specifically shortened to facilitate the shift. Try to drive in all gears with a significant effort - in a hill or accelerating - the chain does not get bogged down with the gears. The gears should be straight and not have beats in rotation. Cranks should not loose on the carriage shaft.
The carriage should not be loose, squeak, stick with rotation. Beating gears may be due to bend the shaft carriage.
The sleeve should allow the wheel to rotate freely. It is not good if the wheel stops quickly, it should gradually slow down after a few swings back and forth before settling permanently. Wiggle the wheel rim for laterally - defect should not be or very minimum, almost imperceptible to the eye. Repeat this step, turning the wheel 60-90 degrees until you make a full turn. Remove the wheel and rotate the axle hands, make sure it rotate freely.
Rim should not have any substantial distortion, correcting the spokes will not succeed. Inspect the spokes hole and caps - must be no cracks around them, otherwise you will have to change the rim. Brake track should not have obvious depressions in the center. Check the tension of all the spokes - it should be smooth and not too weak. If the wheel is smooth, and the spokes are stretched very uneven, it indicates that the wheel with a substantial "eight" pulled spokes, and the rim was crooked.
Wheel rims should be placed symmetrically with respect to the frame and fork feathers. Poor of symmetry may due to the curved frame or fork or incorrectly assembled wheel. Check the wheel, you can put it backwards - on a flat rim wheel position relative to the frame should not change.
Casings must not be greatly worn and must not have substantial cracks and blisters and cuts from both the tread and the sidewalls.
If the bike does not have distinct defects as described above, and it’s still new or not more 1 year in used, then the reference price is usually about 60-80% of the new price. In other cases, you can expect a lower price.
Buying a second hand bicycle with can considerably save your money. On the other hand, you may encounter a stolen bicycle, the bicycle may have hidden defects or just be worn out.
Saving money when buying used bike actually may well be imaginary. Since on the modern bikes, they have a number of relatively fast wearing parts and assemblies. Even if the equipment is worn slightly, the clarity of his work will be slightly worse than the new. Thus, you will not be able to feel the charm of owning a new bike!
If the bike is not very new, it is possible that, while saving on the purchase of, say, 30% from market price, you may have to change some worn or defected part which the amount of spending could be more than buying a new bike.
The only advantage is the cost will be stretched in time. For example: on the mountain bike with a mileage of 13,000 km and an initial cost value of about $600. You may spent on the current replacement of parts about $450. Then the further expenses only increased when the part is worn or damage.
What to check on the bike before buying
The frame should not bent and have no obvious dents. Wheels should go next to each other, ask someone to drive in a straight line, and see for yourself behind. Ride through a puddle or on dry pavement and look at the tracks. Curved or bent frame shows rough riding or accident – this bike should be avoided, because straighten the frame usually does not work.
Look on the bike appearance, the number of paint chips and clobbered it can be assumed as how the bike is treated previously. Inspect frame for cracks. Most often can be found in the vicinity of the seat post, and handlebars.
Grasp the frame near the top of the seat and the steering seat post and slightly tilted from the bike itself, push foot in the shaft of the carriage turns on both sides. Frame will flex under load, but at the same time, should not clicks and squeaks sound, which may indicate the micro cracks in the frame. Try holding the frame in the same places, "break" frame - with one hand over the other from themselves. Listen to any clicks and squeaks, the good one should not produce that sound.
Fork and steering should not have significant backlash. Check on the minimum clearance in the fork. To check, hold the front brake and rock the bike back and forth. Play in the handlebars may indicate broken bearings and the fork. Suspension fork should work at reasonable effort and without jamming.
Wheel , frame and seatpost should not be bent or have dents. Otherwise you'll have to replace them. Try to change the saddle height - seatpost should be free, but without noticeable backlash in the frame to move the entire length. The seat should not moving, it must be securely fixed. Seat rails should not be bent.
Brake levers, front and rear derailleurs should not have significant backlash. Get ready to change any of thes, if significant backlash is visible. Everything must move without binding. Acceptable clearance on the end frame of the rear derailleur around 3-4 mm. Rollers should rotate freely and have an acceptable profile of the teeth or their need to change. Cables should not have any burst, and fractures. If you have installed hydraulic brakes, brake fluid stains or oil should not be anywhere else.
The chain quality or wear can be determined using a special gauge or measuring unit of 24. Average distance between the centers of the connecting pins - 304.8 mm. When measuring this distance is greater than 2 mm larger than the nominal value, be prepared to change not only the chain, but the tape and, possibly, all the system.
Tooth profile of all cassettes and systems should be more or less symmetrical, excluding individual teeth, specifically shortened to facilitate the shift. Try to drive in all gears with a significant effort - in a hill or accelerating - the chain does not get bogged down with the gears. The gears should be straight and not have beats in rotation. Cranks should not loose on the carriage shaft.
The carriage should not be loose, squeak, stick with rotation. Beating gears may be due to bend the shaft carriage.
The sleeve should allow the wheel to rotate freely. It is not good if the wheel stops quickly, it should gradually slow down after a few swings back and forth before settling permanently. Wiggle the wheel rim for laterally - defect should not be or very minimum, almost imperceptible to the eye. Repeat this step, turning the wheel 60-90 degrees until you make a full turn. Remove the wheel and rotate the axle hands, make sure it rotate freely.
Rim should not have any substantial distortion, correcting the spokes will not succeed. Inspect the spokes hole and caps - must be no cracks around them, otherwise you will have to change the rim. Brake track should not have obvious depressions in the center. Check the tension of all the spokes - it should be smooth and not too weak. If the wheel is smooth, and the spokes are stretched very uneven, it indicates that the wheel with a substantial "eight" pulled spokes, and the rim was crooked.
Wheel rims should be placed symmetrically with respect to the frame and fork feathers. Poor of symmetry may due to the curved frame or fork or incorrectly assembled wheel. Check the wheel, you can put it backwards - on a flat rim wheel position relative to the frame should not change.
Casings must not be greatly worn and must not have substantial cracks and blisters and cuts from both the tread and the sidewalls.
If the bike does not have distinct defects as described above, and it’s still new or not more 1 year in used, then the reference price is usually about 60-80% of the new price. In other cases, you can expect a lower price.